Hand-rearing:Some simple basics - Article by Tony Silva

Hand-Rearing Parrots: Some Simple Basics

The breeding season is underway, as shown by the number of messages I receive each week from individuals facing challenges with hand-rearing young parrots. This article addresses those concerns. Hand-rearing is rewarding, challenging, time-consuming, and at times frustrating. No one can claim that they never encounter problems, but many issues can be significantly reduced by following some very basic principles. If corners are cut, problems will be continuous and can severely impact the health of the chicks.

The key to successful hand-rearing can be summarized in two words: hygiene and proper diet.

Hygiene means keeping chicks on a clean substrate, maintaining an immaculate brooder, thoroughly washing and disinfecting feeding instruments, wiping surfaces after every use, reducing dust, disinfecting hands, and limiting outside contact with the chicks.

Proper diet means understanding the correct water-to-solids ratio, meeting the nutritional needs of the chicks, following a strict feeding schedule, maintaining correct formula temperature, and preparing fresh formula for each feeding. I do not recommend mixing ingredients to make homemade formulas in an attempt to save money. If someone cannot afford commercially prepared formulas, they should not be breeding. Commercial formulas, while not perfect, are far superior to makeshift mixtures such as mashed banana or oatmeal cereal, which are severely deficient in minerals and calcium.

Newly hatched chicks have undeveloped immune systems and are highly vulnerable to infection. For this reason, chicks hatched in incubators should be kept separate from chicks removed from nests, as each group carries a different bacterial profile. I start incubator-hatched chicks on tissue and quickly transition them to absorbent shavings to prevent them from sitting in their droppings. I have had very few cases of chicks swallowing shavings because I keep the chicks consistently fed — they are never allowed to fully empty during the day. In the wild, chicks do not empty between feedings; they are continuously fed. When chicks are allowed to empty, they become frantic for food, may pump or bite each other, and often damage the beak. Raising chicks singly is unnatural and often leads to behavioral issues. When raised together, chicks exhibit natural bonding behaviors such as seeking warmth, play-preening, and mouthing each other’s feet.

We change bedding three times a day. Used shavings are discarded, and tubs are first washed with soapy water and then disinfected — disinfectants lose effectiveness in the presence of organic matter, so cleaning must be done in this order. The same system applies to syringes, feeding surfaces, brooders, and nursery floors. Since commercial formulas contain fat, feeding equipment must be scrubbed thoroughly to remove grease. Syringes are assigned to specific brooders to prevent cross-contamination.

To prevent disease introduction, we maintain two separate nursery rooms — one for incubator-hatched chicks and the other for parent-hatched chicks — each with separate air systems and clothing protocols. Visitors are generally not allowed. If permitted, they must wear protective clothing and are strictly prohibited from touching the chicks. Diseases like polyomavirus and PBFD can be transferred easily through contact.

Commercial formulas are the best base for feeding chicks. However, they can be improved depending on species needs. For Eclectus chicks, I add pureed vegetables; for macaws, Amazons, African Greys, and conures, I add healthy fats such as natural peanut butter; for lories, fruits and vegetables are incorporated. We keep steamed carrot, broccoli, and sweet potato purees frozen in cubes for convenience. Fresh tropical fruits such as papaya, guava, and mango are preferred. Papaya is especially valuable. For fat supplementation, I add one teaspoon of peanut butter to each 250 ml of formula for non–fat-requiring species and one tablespoon for fat-requiring species. Field studies show that wild parrots feed chicks high-fat foods during the breeding season.

Brooder and formula temperature are also crucial. Newly hatched chicks cannot regulate their body temperature and must be kept warm. We begin at 36°C and gradually lower the temperature as chicks grow. Formula is fed at 40°C. Water is heated and mixed thoroughly to eliminate hot spots, and the temperature is always confirmed with a thermometer. Overheated formula can burn the crop and lead to severe complications.

If digestion slows, do not use over-the-counter tonics. Instead, use black tea, cumin water, or what I call papaya cream — a blend of papaya seeds and flesh liquefied with Pedialyte and strained. It stimulates crop movement far better than commercial products. Once digestion returns to normal, formula can be gradually reintroduced. Always determine the cause of crop stasis — bacteria, chilling, fungus, or substrate ingestion — as these are management-related issues.

If you have never hand-reared, learn first. Read from reputable sources and spend time observing an experienced breeder. Do not buy chicks and then expect to learn as you go; lives are at stake. I receive messages from individuals asking for hand-rearing guidance after the chicks are already in distress — sometimes resulting in preventable deaths. Inexperienced individuals should not attempt hand-rearing without proper training.

Finally, hand-rearing is not only about feeding and cleaning. Chicks must be socialized. In my home, young parrots learn to step up, go into travel carriers, accept nail trimming, engage comfortably with humans, and interact appropriately with other birds. Properly hand-reared chicks grow into excellent companions or breeders.

When done correctly and responsibly, hand-rearing is a remarkable experience that produces strong, healthy, well-adjusted parrots.